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Histoire de la boucherie

 La boucherie, de l'antiquité à nos jours

La boucherie est le plus ancien des métiers de l’alimentation. L’homme peut pétrir et cuire lui-même son pain, faire pousser des légumes. Mais les bêtes de la chair desquelles il se nourrit sont, à l’exception des volatiles et des lapins, d’une taille telle qu’à moins de les conserver par salage ou fumage, il doit les partager avec plusieurs de ses semblables. Aussi, dès que disparaît le mode de vie patriarcal ou tribal qui maintenait groupées un certain nombre de personnes et permettait l’abattage des gros animaux, la boucherie devient-elle une des principales activités sociales. A Thèbes, dans le tombeau de Meketré, haut fonctionnaire de la XIe dynastie, figurait parmi les “modèles” en terre cuite utilisés comme ornements funéraires, la reproduction d’une salle d’abattoir (aujourd’hui au Metropolitan Museum de New York). Dans les ruines des monuments de la Vallée des Rois, plus de quinze statues de bouchers, ayant sans doute rang de dignitaires, ont été exhumées.

Sous les Romains, la demande de viande, tant de bovins, d’ovins ou de porcs s’accroissant à Rome, par suite de l’évolution des habitudes alimentaires et de l’augmentation de la population, on doit adjoindre deux nouvelles boucheries, c’est-à-dire deux groupes d’étaux supplémentaires (y compris des étaux où l’on débite de la viande de porc) à ceux qui existaient déjà au Grand Marché, le Macellum Magnum du Mont Celius. Les bouchers forment deux corporations distinctes, les suarii, pour le commerce de la viande de porc, les boarii ou pecuarii, pour celui de la viande des autres animaux. Il s’agit déjà de groupements professionnels possédant un règlement et dirigés par un président élu par ses pairs. Pour assurer le ravitaillement des troupes en campagne, l’administration romaine délègue des bouchers aux armées. Au hasard des étapes en territoire ennemi, ils se procurent, à bon compte, on l’imagine, les bêtes dont ils ont besoin.

Les invasions barbares balaient ces premières structures corporatives, mais n’en semblent pas moins favoriser l’essor de la boucherie. Avec l’afflux du bétail que poussent devant eux les envahisseurs, la profession, peu développée jusqu’alors car la Gaule ne possédait qu’un assez maigre cheptel, prend de l’importance. Cependant, elle retourne à ses origines. Tout permet de penser qu’à cette époque les bouchers sont, en grande partie, assimilés aux officiers de table qui, lors des festins, entourent les seigneurs. Les bêtes, et jusqu’aux boeufs, y sont servies entières; le convive ayant le plus haut titre y porte le premier le couteau; l’officier boucher effectue en suite le dépeçage.

Sous Philippe-Auguste, les Halles se développent, provoquant le repli des clercs, des professeurs et des étudiants sur la rive gauche de la Seine, où Suger et Abélard ont déjà porté leur querelle. Ainsi, la ville se scinde en deux parties distinctes qui reproduisent assez bien, dans un contraste manichéen, les deux visages de l’époque. Le quartier des Halles devient le lieu où elle s’avoue, s’accepte, dans l’amoncellement des nourritures, la convoitise, la putréfaction, la luxure, les pratiques de magie, la violence. Le long des pentes et au sommet de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève, au contraire, elle essaie désespérément de s’imposer le double corset de la foi et de la scolastique.

Au milieu des Halles, qui comportent maintenant des bâtiments de bois abritant les différents commerces ,s’élève le pilori. Les condamnés y sont assurés d’un large public. Quant aux exécutions, elles ont lieu au marché aux poissons où, pour la circonstance, on accroche quelques tentures. Un peu plus loin, se trouve la Cour des miracles, avec ses aveugles fous, ou simplement ivres, ses voleurs, ses mendiants qui entretiennent leurs ulcères, ses convulsionnaires, ses faux infirmes qui se battent à coups de béquille. A gauche, en revenant vers la Seine, le cimetière des Saints-Innocents où, la nuit, les prostituées s’offrent à même les tombes (Michelet).

La profession a cependant subi la secousse révolutionnaire. En 1791, les privilèges corporatifs ont été supprimés. Plus de communautés de métiers, de maîtrises et de jurandes. Tout citoyen a le droit de tenir un étal. En quelques années, le nombre des bouchers pari siens passe de 250 à 1000. Un certain désordre s’ensuit. Si l’on en croit la petite histoire, c’est à la suite d’un repas où on lui a servi de la viande de mauvaise qualité que Bonaparte publie, le , Vendémiaire an XI, un arrêté réglementant la boucherie de Paris. Un peu plus tard, en 1811, il fixe à 300 le nombre des bouchers dans la capitale. Par ailleurs, il interdit les abattoirs privés (qu’on appelle aussi les tueries) à l’intérieur des grandes villes. On y substitue, loin du centre des agglomérations, des établissements municipaux (trois pour Paris,à cette époque) avec tout-à-l'égout et “Liberté-Egalité Fraternité” gravé au-dessus de la porte. Par l’ordonnance du 15 Avril 1838, les abattoirs n’en seront pas moins rangés dans la catégorie des établissement dangereux et insalubres; toute demande de création d’abattoir devra être soumise aux formalités d’affiches et d’enquête de commodo et incommodo.

Balzac voit dans la prospérité de la boucherie le symbole du pro grès social. Ne reculant pas devant les théories les plus matérialistes, il prône les vertus de l’alimentation carnée,et fait dire à son “Médecin de campagne”

“Pour moi les progrès intellectuels étaient tout entiers dans les progrès sanitaires. Un boucher annonce dans un pays autant d’intelligence que de richesses. Qui travaille mange ,et qui mange pense.” Ces lignes dont la naïveté désarme ne font que traduire un idéalisme bourgeois dont on ne peut nier l’existence, dans cette première moitié du XIXe siècle. C’est souvent avec la plus grande sincérité que la bourgeoisie d’alors assimile l’intérêt personnel au bien public. “Enrichissez-vous!” recommande Guizot.

Jusqu’à la guerre de 1870, seuls les bovins et les moutons sont considérés comme des bêtes de boucherie (les chevreaux ne figurant parmi elles que dans la période pascale). Il faut le siège de Paris, qui fait régner la disette dans la capitale, pour que les chevaux prennent à leur tour le chemin de l’abattoir. D’autres animaux subissent le même sort. Au marché Saint-Germain, on peut voir une boucherie ambulante qui porte une enseigne où on lit: “Résistance à outrance. Grande boucherie canine et féline” Sans doute la psychose obsidionale explique-t-elle ces expédients alimentaires qui resteront célèbres, dans l’histoire, car, bien qu’aussi affamés que les Parisiens de 1870, ceux de la dernière guerre n’y ont pas eu recours

Ce qui donne au métier du boucher son caractère fascinant, c’est qu’il représente la survivance d’un acte originel dont le ciel, jadis, s’est étonné. Depuis le début des temps, le boucher abat toujours le même boeuf, et nous l’abattons avec lui. Il n’est pas un autre métier au monde qui nous donne un tel sentiment d’éternité. De miracle aussi. Nous assistons à la conversion de la mort de l’animal en une image pleine de diversité, vivement colorée, et qui parle aux sens; une image d’où finalement c’est une espèce de joie qui se dégage. Si elle n’avait pas existé, l’artiste aurait inventé la chair crue. Voyez Rembrandt. Il n’est pas de matière où le rouge s’approfondisse autant et offre un aussi grand nombre de nuances.

 

A l'heure où l'on parle de traçabilité, de sécurité sanitaire, il ne faut pas oublier le coeur et la passion de ces hommes et femmes, qui, à l'image des ces deux apprentis, perpétuent l'art et les traditions de la boucherie.

Aujourd'hui plus qu'hier, nous devons faire confiance à nos artisans bouchers.

**************

 

 

 

 

 

Textes extraits de "Les bouchers". Auteur Pierre Gascar.Editions de Nesle

24 votes. Moyenne 3.33 sur 5.

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